The Big Easy

Ah, Louisiana, we fell in love so quickly and already you're so far away. Driving east, away from the vast open deserts of the Southwest, which seem to stretch on forever, always saying, "Later, tomorrow, more", one is suddenly struck with the weight of the Southeast. The air is thick with swamp, heavy karma, and the stench of meat boiled in oil. The only way to survive generations in a place like this is to contrast that immense weight with a culture that allows one to, occasionally, feel as if one can levitate above the dirt and leave this tangled earth. The music, which has spread out from this point on the globe to nearly every other corner of the planet where music reaches ears, is the best example of this temporary lightness of being. Zydeco and New Orleans brass band were the two styles we were able to see live, throbbing and sweating with bourbon and cigars, black, white and brown bodies, born between 1920 and 1990, gyrating and shaking the floor into a rhythmic wave. Of course such energy needs a source and gumbo, crayfish and Tabasco stoke the bowels of the Southern ship and wide selection of alcohols provide the lubricant in this state with the most lax alcohol regulations in the nation. Without further adieu, here is a tiny taste of the sugar state for your viewing pleasure:

The insides of the Tabasco factory on Avery Island, an underground salt mountain deeper than Everest is tall:


The first Buddha to reach American shores, this 900 year-old statue was looted from a Chinese monastery, sold to New York, then gifted to one of the heirs to the hot sauce fortune who placed it on Avery Island where it now resides, providing a backdrop to jet skiers and wedding photos:


The famous Cafe du Monde in New Orleans, with a nutritious breakfast of beignets and cafe au lait, served since 1862:



St. Louis Cathedral, the oldest active cathedral in the United States (since 1718):


The streets of the French Quarter:

We Didn't Mess With It

Oh, I am so behind on the posting. Selah. Here's some pretty pictures from the country of Texas. Since these were taken we've chowed on gumbo seen the birthplace of Tabasco in Cajun country, lived it up with Rebirth Brass Band in New Orleans, gotten our hands dirty and our minds sparked on the fantastic Salamander Springs, just outside Macon, Georgia, and now we're in North Carolina preparing for a run out to the Atlantic. Lordy, what a beautiful country with beautiful people and beautiful problems.

Marfa Prada, a Prada store (nonfunctional) outside Marfa, Texas:


Big Bend National Park
Chisos Mountains:






Single file line of javalina, wild desert pigs, raiding the campground at lunch:





Bats in Austin, part of the largest urban bat colony in the world (1.5 million bat who eat 3000 lbs. of insects every night):


The live music capital of the world at night, Austin, Texas:

El Paso, Texas

Special to T.A. Zigarelli & Sons Publishing Co.

419 North El Paso Street:


Chiquita's Bar:


El Paso Parking Lot Mural of Fame:


Outdoor market, about 4 blocks from the US-Mexico border:


Plants still grow here:


I-10:


Paseo del Norte:

New Mexico

Ah, the dear Southwest. We spent about two weeks on a wonderful farm with wonderful people just south of Santa Fe. The work we did was to help get the garden ready for the winter; weeding, mulching, straightening rows, etc. The farm is right by the old Route 66, which is just a dirt road now, and one of the first motels in the country (it has been closed for a while). There were all kinds of petroglyphs right off the side of the road which was incredible to think of the history there, from ancient trading route to dust bowl migration to its current state of minimal use because of the Interstate. It was also lots of fun to explore Santa Fe and Albuquerque. We got to see author Sherman Alexie speak, went to a free film festival, and met some interesting characters.
Since then, we've gone through El Paso, Big Bend National Park, and now we're in Austin, Texas. Plenty more photos, but not enough time right now...
Anyways, thanks to all the great people we met in New Mexico, especially the delightful folks at Squash Blossom Farms!


Shameless Grasshoppers:


Tent Rocks National Monument (reminds me of the Fairy Chimneys in central Turkey Link ):




Old adobe building:


The Farm:

Chapter 2: The Rockies

The Rockies are a long stretch of young mountains that cut North America in half, creating the Continental Divide. They're also home to all kinds of people and wildlife, from bears and bison to coyote and cowboys (cowpersons). We loved the area, from Glacier National Park in the north, where a grizzly bear grunted at us, to Yellowstone, where it snowed hard the second night, causing a tree to fall about a foot away from the heads of some fellow campers, not 20 feet away, to the great hospitality of friends and family in Denver and Boulder. Car troubles gave us a detour into Idaho and Utah, where we saw petroglyphs, dinosaur bones, eager fruit salesmen on the side of the highway and Mormons, so many Mormons.
Now we're in New Mexico, working on a farm. I'm glad to be back in the Land of Enchantment and glad to have a break from driving. It's also nice to be getting my hands dirty in the field. Signing off for now...

Glacier National Park




Where your wheat comes from-Montana-:


Yellowstone National Park:

The Big Country

Chapter 1: The Pacific Northwest
Forward: Burning Man
Well, we're already just over a month into our road trip and this is my first post. So much has already happened that I don't know how to even begin to write about it all at once. Burning Man was an intense reintroduction to city folk after a summer spent pretty much with just two other people camping in Nevada. Confusing, jarring, but ultimately beautiful and rewarding. Then it was up the coast to visit friends and family along the way. It has reminded me how many generous, interesting, and generally great people I know (and don't know yet). Thanks to everyone who's let us stay with them so far and shared some of their time with us!
We've already begun the next chapter here in Missoula, Montana and tomorrow it's off to Glacier National Park, hopefully before too much snow hits.


Burning Man:







The Smith River:


Thom and Fidel in Portland:


Pike's Place Market in Seattle:


Seattle from the Sound:


Olympia: